How To Clean Out The Chinchilla

Contents

Healthy chinchilla eyes bright, shiny, without cloudy spots, dry. Fur around the eyes should also not be wet, wrinkled or contaminated. Wet "weeping", the current, swollen eyes of the chinchilla indicate that she had any health problems.

Sometimes the eyes (or one eye) begin to numb and fill with mucopurulent discharge, as a result of which the eye sticks together and stops opening.

Conjunctivitis (inflammation of the mucous membrane of the eye) is an infectious disease of the eye. It can be viral or infectious, and sometimes the result of an allergic reaction to food, hay, sand or bedding in an animal’s cage.

For treatment, children’s drops for the eyes, ointments with an antibiotic are used, the stiff eye is washed with chamomile infusion, chlorhexidine or drops "Vizin". Supportive therapy is carried out to enhance the immunity of the animal.

Sometimes, mechanical damage to the membrane or the ingress of foreign particles leads to inflammation of the eye. In this case, rinse the eye with warm water and drip a drug that relieves irritation (for example, Okulohel).

Current eyes can also be a sign of a very serious illness associated with an incorrect chinchilla bite, hooks, sprouting of a tooth root in the eyeball or lacrimal canal. In this case, the chinchilla needs to be examined by a veterinarian who will examine the oral cavity, take an x-ray and, if necessary, conduct hook removal operation.
Throughout the entire period of the disease and treatment is strongly not recommended bathe chinchilla in the sand.

The ears serve as a thermostat for the chinchilla and allow it to regulate body temperature.
Hot, red ears indicate that chinchilla hot and she is trying to lower her temperature.
Do not worry about it if your chinchilla before that she was active (for example, running in a wheel or jumping on shelves). If the air temperature in the apartment constantly exceeds 25 degrees, then the red ears may indicate that the chinchilla is overheating. It is necessary to lower the temperature to avoid heat stroke in the animal.

Brown spots are not a sign of disease. They can occur with age, especially in beige chinchillas.

Chinchillas’ healthy ears are dry, without scabs, peeling and scabs. The inside is clean, shiny, without sticking, dirt and moisture.

If your chinchilla often rubs its ears, shakes its head, loses coordination, falls over on its side, then urgently need to check the ears. If in the auricle you see dark, purulent, viscous discharge, then the main reason for this phenomenon is otitis media (ear inflammation).
In this case, it is necessary to rinse the ears with Chlorhexidine and instill warm baby drops from otitis media.
This is a serious disease, so you should contact your veterinarian for further diagnosis and treatment.

The flaky ears of chinchillas may indicate that you outbid your animal in the sand and dried his ears. You can lubricate the outside of your ears with any light, moisturizing, baby cream that restores skin hydration.

The area of ​​the nose and mouth of the chinchilla should be dry, without any secretions, clean, without sores and scabs.

If the animal’s nasal opening is clogged with yellow-dirty dried crusts, then these are most likely symptoms of a cold, infectious or fungal disease.

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Mucous discharge, sneezing, rubbing the nose and mouth with paws, nervousness in behavior, depression, wheezing in the lungs, heavy breathing. all this suggests that chinchilla caught a cold. Just like people, an animal can catch a cold from drafts in your apartment.
Chinchilla should be placed in a warm, windproof place. With a cold, antibiotics are pierced or drunk, a course of treatment with immune devices is carried out. The nose is cleaned of mucus with a cotton swab dipped in Chlorhexidine and the baby droplets are dripped from the common cold.
In severe cases, you should immediately consult a veterinarian.

The loss of fur around the nose, the formation of bald spots, bloody scratches indicate a fungal infection (lichen).
Microsporia is quite successfully treated at home. It is necessary to observe strict hygiene, to plant healthy chinchillas from the diseased.
The affected areas of the skin are lubricated several times a day with Lamisil or Exoderil solution.

Dental problems can lead to wasting and death of chinchillas.
Therefore, your pet’s teeth should be given special attention.

Chinchillas have 20 teeth (16 molars and 4 incisors).
All of them should be straight, without bevels, chips and darkening.

The teeth are bright orange, even. The lower teeth are slightly longer than the upper ones. The front teeth are located above the back. Two on the top and two on the bottom. To check the front incisors, you need to lift the upper part of the lip.

If chinchillas white, light yellow color of teeth. it is necessary to additionally include trace elements, calcium and vitamins in the diet.

The area of ​​the mouth of the chinchilla should always be dry, closed, the tongue should not be visible.
The fur around the mouth should not be dirty, forming icicles. There should be no bald spots, crusts or sores.

If your chinchilla’s chin is wet, your mouth is ajar, drooling. this is the first sign that the animal has started dental problems.
These include:

  • Tooth hook regrowth. Do not try to find it yourself.
    Hooks are inside where molars are located. Urgently take a chinchilla to an experienced veterinarian specializing in dental problems.
  • Stomatitis (inflammation of the oral mucosa). formation of painful sores in the mouth, redness, profuse salivation.
    In this case, it is necessary to treat the mouth with antibacterial drugs, lubricate Lugol, sprinkle Streptocide.
    You also need to conduct an intensive course of vitaminization of the animal.
  • Healthy chinchilla legs have a smooth, velvety surface. The color depends on the color of the chinchilla.
    Dark spots on the legs do not indicate a disease.

    The front legs have five toes. four grasping and large, which is underdeveloped. Four fingers on hind legs.

    There should be no scabs, wounds, redness or purulent inflammation on the paws.

    With a cellular content, chinchillas suffer from "corns" (subdermatitis). It comes from "fatigue" foot surfaces chinchillas on contact with hard, smooth surfaces.
    To avoid this. pour part of the bottom in the cage with small chips.

    How To Clean Out The Chinchilla

    Sometimes subdermatitis becomes a systemic disease, which must be treated with special drugs. Treat the legs with Chlorhexidine and lubricate with ointments: Solcoseryl, Levomekol, Levosin.

    To prevent paws, you can lubricate the feet with a light, moisturizing hand cream.

    The healthy chinchilla’s fur is shiny, smooth, not sticky. It should not be dull, fallen off, with sticking shreds on the surface.
    The hairline of the animal shows its condition very well. If the chinchilla is sick with something, then the fur is the first "reacts" to the problem.

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    If your chinchilla has shorter, local spots on the surface of the coat "trimmed" fur. then she, or her cell neighbors, began to gnaw him.
    This comes from stress or when the chinchilla has nothing to occupy itself with, and turns into a bad habit, from which it is almost impossible to wean a pet. Make sure the chinchilla always has something to do.
    The cage should have enough toys and free space for movement.

    Also bald places (especially in the area of ​​the nose, legs, ears) can be the result of mycosis, which must be treated with antifungal drugs.

    Wet, matted fur "icicles" in the mouth is a symptom of dental problems. A dirty, yellow, sticky coat in the tail area indicates a problem with the gastrointestinal tract (such as diarrhea).

    Chinchillas appear in chinchilla because she does not have enough time for swimming in the sand and her undercoat is tangled, turning into lumps of fur. To get rid of the animal from them, it is necessary to isolate the cleaver with your fingers and pull it out of the fur. The animal sometimes needs to be combed with special combs that will remove dead hairs and promote the growth of new ones.

    The color of the urine of a healthy chinchilla is yellow; it should be transparent, without any admixture of blood and an unpleasant odor.

    If nettle or alfalfa is present in the diet of the chinchilla, then the urine may turn dark brown. This is not a disease.

    The presence of blood clots in the urine may be due to urolithiasis, intestinal disease, or the common cold. In this case, you should immediately contact your veterinarian.

    ANAL HOLE

    The area around the anus should be clean, free of adherent feces, dry and have a pinkish-bodied color.

    How To Clean Out The Chinchilla

    Pale, yellowish in color, the skin may be due to anemia in the animal.

    Wet, contaminated, with brown streaks, fur under the tail is the result of diarrhea, disruption of the gastrointestinal tract.

    Weight. A very important indicator of chinchilla health. Sometimes only its decline can help you understand that chinchilla got sick. Therefore, be sure to follow its dynamics, regularly weigh the pet and record the results.

    The average weight of an adult chinchilla ranges from 450 to 650 grams. If the animal weighs less. should be tested for protozoa.

    The optimal weight of the newborn baby. from 35 to 65 grams. Puppies weighing less than 25 grams, as a rule, do not survive.
    The daily weight gain of a chinchilla should be at least 2 grams.

    Sometimes, due to severe stress, a pet can sharply throw off from 20 to 40 grams.
    This may be due to relocation, estrus and any other sudden factors.
    In this case, it is necessary to carefully monitor the chinchilla and, if necessary, conduct therapeutic support with vitamins and immune preparations.

    Chinchilla should not constantly and strongly lose weight.
    If this happens, you should immediately consult a doctor or consult experienced breeders.
    The reasons for the rapid weight loss are many. from dental problems to internal inflammatory processes. The quicker get help. the higher the chance to help the chinchilla.

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    BOLUSES (LITTER)

    Chinchilla boluses are slightly moist, have an oblong, rounded, puffy shape, about the same size and shiny surface. They do not smell, do not stick to the fur, do not choke on the surface of shelves and do not stain the animal.
    Animal per day "produces" approximately 200 boluses.

    Boluses should not be too dry, small, elongated, irregular in shape. Mucus, unpleasant odor, blisters, loose stools, or an almost complete absence of litter indicates a serious health problem for the animal.

    In the case of diarrhea, which was provoked by the introduction of new products into the diet, it is necessary to drink chinchilla decoction of oak, give a tablet of activated charcoal, remove food, leave only hay in the cage. You can add a few drops of Hilak Forte to the drinker.
    If diarrhea does not stop within a few days. consult a doctor for advice.

    GENITAL ORGANS

    The genitals of the male and female should be dry, pink in color, without secretions, swelling, mucus or blood streaks.

    In the mating season, during estrus, the female sexual gap may slightly swell, open slightly and secrete a small amount of whitish secretion. If blood is released from the vagina, copious whitish-green mucus or bloody clots. consult a rodent specialist. Such discharge may indicate spontaneous abortion or uterine inflammation in chinchilla.

    On the genitals of the male during mating can form "hair ring"when the hairs of the fur are wound with a tight and tight hoop on the inner surface of the penis, squeezing it and blocking the access of blood. If you do not remove the ring in a timely manner, then the genitals swell, turn red, the consequences can be serious, up to prolapse.

    When the male is worried, he crawls under his tail all the time and tries to clean the penis. meaning it is urgent to inspect the genitals and remove a foreign object. Gently pull the foreskin of the genitals down and examine the head. If a hair ring is found, lubricate the body with a fat cream and try to remove it by pulling the ring up. If this is not possible. Use thin nail scissors. With a sharp end, gently pry the hairs and cut the ring. Then treat the penis with Chlorhexidine and lubricate with an antibacterial cream.

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